Translucent hair conditioning composition

ABSTRACT

Disclosed is a hair conditioning composition comprising: a cationic surfactant; a high melting point fatty compound having a melting point of 25° C. or higher; a material having a refractive index of from about 1.30 to about 1.70; and an aqueous carrier, wherein a composition has a transmittance of at least about 0.5%. The composition is further specified by either: (i) the material is a polyol having at least 3 hydroxyl groups and the polyol is contained at a level of above 30% to about 80% by weight of the composition; or (ii) the cationic surfactant is a salt of a mono-long alkyl amine and an acid. The compositions provides both translucent appearance and conditioning benefits, especially conditioning benefit on wet hair when used as a rinse-off conditioner and/or spreadability on hair.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a hair conditioning compositioncomprising: a cationic surfactant; a high melting point fatty compoundhaving a melting point of 25° C. or higher; a material having arefractive index of from about 1.30 to about 1.70; and an aqueouscarrier, wherein the composition has a transmittance of at least about0.5%, and wherein the cationic surfactant is a salt of a mono-long alkylamine and an acid.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A variety of approaches have been developed to condition the hair. Acommon method of providing conditioning benefit is through the use ofconditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, highmelting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, siliconecompounds, and mixtures thereof. Most of these conditioning agents areknown to provide various conditioning benefits.

For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. H10-7532 fromKose relates to a hair conditioning composition comprising 0.1-8 wt % ofa solid fatty alcohol, 0.1-5 wt % of a liquid fatty alcohol, 0.1-5 wt %of a cationic surfactant, 5-30 wt % of polyol, and 0.1-20 wt of asilicone derivative. This Kose publication also discloses a comparativeexample of the composition comprising 6% of cetyl alcohol, 3% of oleylalcohol, 3% of demethylpolysiloxane, 1% of stearyltrimethylammoniumchloride, and 50% of propylene glycol (Comparative example 10). Thiscomposition of Comparative example 10 is said that its feeling duringapplication is slightly dissatisfied.

Separately, there is a need for conditioning compositions havingtransparent and/or translucent appearance. For example, Japanese PatentApplication Laid-open No. 2001-181142 from Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyorelates to a transparent hair care cosmetic composition comprising 3-30wt % of a glycerin and/or polyglycerin, 1-10 wt % of a polyethermodified silicone, 0.1-5 wt % of a cationic high molecular compound, and0.1-5 wt % of a cationic surfactant. Another example is U.S. Pat. No.5,328,685 from Helen Curtis which relates to a clear hair conditioningcomposition comprising: (a) about 0.4% to about 15% by weight of anamidoamine salt; (b) about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of a siliconecompound having at least two quaternary ammonium moieties; and (c) anaqueous carrier. The US patent also discloses that the carrier ispredominantly water but organic solvents also can be included, anddiscloses clear conditioning composition in examples containing 10%hexylene glycol and 4% propylene glycol, together with an amidoamine,lactic acid, and silicone. Also, there is a conditioner product examplenamed “La Source” from Crabtree & Evelyn which contains Cetrimoniumchloride, Cetyl alcohol, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, but with far lowertransmittance (being from about 0.04% to about 0.06%).

Separately, H. Akatsuka etc. disclose in Col. Surf. A 326 (2008) 169-174the effects of polyols on the rheological properties of ternary systemsincluding behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (C22TAC), 1-octadecanol(C18OH) to improve the stability against shear forces, and alsodiscloses the addition of 20-80 wt % of propylene glycol or glycerin tothe system containing 2 wt % of behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and4 wt % of 1-octadecanol. Transmittances of such systems with polyols arenot described in this publication, however, are thought to be low inview of bilayer repeat distance shown in FIG. 8 in this publication.

However, there remains a need for such conditioning compositions toprovide both translucent appearance and conditioning benefits,especially conditioning benefit on wet hair when used as a rinse-offconditioner and/or spreadability on hair.

None of the existing art provides all of the advantages and benefits ofthe present invention.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a hair conditioning compositioncomprising:

-   (a) a cationic surfactant;-   (b) a high melting point fatty compound having a melting point of    25° C. or higher;-   (c) a material having a refractive index of from about 1.30 to about    1.70; and-   (d) an aqueous carrier    wherein the composition has a transmittance of at least about 0.5%,    and wherein the cationic surfactant is a salt of a mono-long alkyl    amine and an acid.

The composition of the present invention provides provide bothtranslucent appearance and conditioning benefits, especiallyconditioning benefit on wet hair when used as a rinse-off conditionerand/or spreadability on hair.

These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the presentinvention will become better understood from a reading of the followingdescription, and appended claims.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing outand distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the presentinvention will be better understood from the following description.

Herein, “comprising” means that other steps and other ingredients whichdo not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses theterms “consisting of” and “consisting essentially of”.

All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of thecompositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. Allsuch weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on theactive level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products thatmay be included in commercially available materials.

Herein, “mixtures” is meant to include a simple combination of materialsand any compounds that may result from their combination.

Hair Conditioning Composition

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises acationic surfactant, high melting point fatty compound, material havinga higher refractive index such as polyol, and an aqueous carrier. Thecationic surfactant, the high melting point fatty compound, materialhaving a higher refractive index such as polyol, and the aqueous carrierare in the form of emulsion.

In the composition, a total amount of cationic surfactants and highmelting point fatty compounds is preferably from about 1.5% to about10%, more preferably from about 2.0% to about 8.0%, still morepreferably from about 2.5% to about 6.0%, in view of providing a balancebetween conditioning benefits and translucent product appearance.

Transmittance

The composition of the present invention has a translucent productappearance. The composition has a transmittance of at least about 0.5%at 25° C., preferably at least about 1.0%, more preferably at leastabout 1.5% and preferably up to about 40%, more preferably up to about30%, still more preferably up to about 20%. This transmittance is forthe composition, i.e., final product formulation which can containadditional ingredients such as silicone, perfume and/or preservatives.

The transmittance for the composition base before containing suchadditional ingredients can be higher. The composition base, thus,consist only of the cationic surfactant, the high melting point fattycompound, the material having a higher refractive index such as polyol,and the aqueous carrier. The composition base has a transmittance ofpreferably at least about 5% at 25° C., more preferably at least about7%, still more preferably at least about 10% and preferably up to about40%, more preferably up to about 30%, still more preferably up to about25%.

The transmittance in the present invention is a total transmittancewhich is a sum of diffuse and regular transmission, and which ismeasured at 600 nm using a Dual-beam spectrophotometer UltraScan Vis,which is a UV visible spectrophotometer available from HunterLab.

Shear Stress

Preferably, in view of spreadability, the composition has a shear stressof at least about 100 Pa, more preferably at least about 120 Pa, stillmore preferably at least about 140 Pa, and preferably up to about 1000Pa, more preferably up to about 800 Pa, still more preferably up toabout 600 Pa, even more preferably up to about 400 Pa. When the shearstress is too low, the composition is too runny to spread on hair, anddrip off from hair and/or hands. When the shear stress is too high, thecomposition is too hard to spread on hair. This shear stress is for thecomposition, i.e., final product formulation which can containadditional ingredients such as silicone, perfume and/or preservatives.

The shear stress for the composition base before containing suchadditional ingredients can be higher. The composition base, thus,consist only of the cationic surfactant, the high melting point fattycompound, the material having a higher refractive index such as polyol,and the aqueous carrier. The composition base has a shear stress ofpreferably at least about 200 Pa, more preferably at least about 250 Pa,still more preferably at least about 300 Pa, even more preferably atleast about 350 Pa, and preferably up to about 1000 Pa, more preferablyup to about 800 Pa, still more preferably up to about 600 Pa, even morepreferably up to about 400 Pa.

Shear stress is measured by shear rate sweep condition with a rheometeravailable from TA Instruments with a mode name of ARG2. Geometry has 40mm diameter, 2° C. cone angle, and gap of 49 μm. Shear rate islogarithmically increased from 0 to 1200/s for 1 min, and temperature iskept at 26.7° C. Share stress at a high shear rate of 950/s is measuredand defined above.

Substantially Free of Low Melting Point Fatty Compound

Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are substantiallyfree of low melting point fatty compounds, in view of stability of thecomposition such as reduced the risk of phase separation, in view ofspreadability by having a preferred shear stress, and/or in view oftranslucent product appearance.

In the present invention, the compositions being “substantially free” oflow melting point fatty compounds means that: the composition is free oflow melting point fatty compounds; or, if the composition contains lowmelting point fatty compound, the level of such low melting point fattycompound is very low. In the present invention, the level of such lowmelting point fatty compound is, if included, 0.1% or less, preferably0.05% or less, more preferably 0.01% or less, most preferably 0%.

The low melting point fatty compound herein have a melting point ofbelow 25° C. (not including 25° C.), preferably below 40° C. (notincluding 40° C.), more preferably below 45° C. (not including 45° C.).

Such low melting point fatty compounds herein include, for example,oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, isostearylalcohol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, caprylic alcohol, decyl alcohol.

Substantially Free of Non-Silicone Thickening Polymers

Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are substantiallyfree of non-silicone thickening polymers, in view of wet conditioning.Non-silicone thickening polymers herein are polymeric compounds otherthan silicone polymers, and selected from the group consisting ofnon-silicone nonionic thickening polymers, non-silicone cationicthickening polymers, non-silicone anionic crosslinked thickeningpolymers, and mixtures thereof. Non-silicone thickening polymers hereinhave a molecular weight of at least about 1,000.

In the present invention, the compositions being “substantially free” ofnon-silicone thickening polymers means that: the composition is free ofnon-silicone thickening polymers; or, if the composition containsnon-silicone thickening polymers, the level of such non-siliconethickening polymers is very low. In the present invention, the level ofsuch non-silicone thickening polymers is, if included, 0.1% or less,preferably 0.05% or less, more preferably 0.01% or less, most preferably0%.

Non-silicone nonionic thickening polymers include, for example,polysaccharide polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, guars which are often used as viscosity modifiers/rheologybuilders. Non-silicone cationic thickening polymers include, forexample, cationic celluloses such as polyquaternium-4,polyquaternium-10, cationic guars, and other non-polysaccharide cationicpolymers. Non-silicone anionic crosslinked thickening polymers include,for example, carbomer, and Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.

Cationic Surfactant

The compositions of the present invention comprise a cationicsurfactant. The cationic surfactant can be included in the compositionat a level of preferably from about 0.3%, more preferably from about0.5%, still more preferably from about 0.7% by weight of the compositionand preferably to about 5%, more preferably to about 3%, still morepreferably to about 2% by weight of the composition, in view of balancebetween providing translucent product appearance and providingconditioning benefits

Cationic surfactant useful herein is a salt of a mono-long alkyl amineand an acid in view of providing translucent product appearance andconditioning benefits, especially a salt of a mono-long alkyl amidoamineand an acid.

Mono-Long Alkyl Amine

Mono-long alkyl amine useful herein are those having one long alkylchain of preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 alkyl group.Mono-long alkyl amines useful herein also include mono-long alkylamidoamines Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful.

Particularly useful are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group offrom about 12 to about 22 carbons. Exemplary tertiary amido aminesinclude: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine,stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine,palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine,palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine,behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine,behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine,arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine,arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine,diethylaminoethylstearamide. Useful amines in the present invention aredisclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al.

These amines are used in combination with acids such as l-glutamic acid,lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid,fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, l-glutamic hydrochloride,maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; more preferably l-glutamic acid,lactic acid, citric acid, at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid offrom about 1:0.3 to about 1:2, more preferably from about 1:0.4 to about1:1.

Other Cationic Surfactants

The above mono-long alkyl amine salts can be used with or without othercationic surfactants such as mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium saltand di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt.

Mono-Long Alkyl Quaternized Ammonium Salt

The mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are thosehaving one long alkyl chain which has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms,preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably C18-22 alkylgroup. The remaining groups attached to nitrogen are independentlyselected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or analkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylarylgroup having up to about 4 carbon atoms.

Mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are thosehaving the formula (I):

wherein one of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸ is selected from an alkyl group offrom 12 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene,alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸ are independentlyselected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or analkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylarylgroup having up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X⁻ is a salt-forming anionsuch as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate,citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate,alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals. The alkyl groups cancontain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and/or esterlinkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain alkylgroups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated orunsaturated. Preferably, one of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸ is selected froman alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, evenmore preferably 22 carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸are independently selected from CH₃, C₂H₅, C₂H₄OH, and mixtures thereof;and X is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH₃OSO₃,C₂H₅OSO₃, and mixtures thereof.

Nonlimiting examples of such mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium saltcationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium salt; stearyltrimethyl ammonium salt; cetyl trimethyl ammonium salt; and hydrogenatedtallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt.

Di-Long Alkyl Quaternized Ammonium Salts

When used, di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts are preferablycombined with a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt or mono-longalkyl amine salt, at the weight ratio of from 1:1 to 1:5, morepreferably from 1:1.2 to 1:5, still more preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:4,in view of stability in rheology and conditioning benefits.

Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those havingtwo long alkyl chains of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferablyfrom 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbonatoms. Such di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein arethose having the formula (I):

wherein two of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are selected from an aliphaticgroup of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbonatoms, more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic,alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylarylgroup having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³and R⁷⁴ are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 toabout 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms or anaromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl oralkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X⁻ is asalt-forming anion selected from the group consisting of halides such aschloride and bromide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate andethosulfate, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic groups can contain, inaddition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groupssuch as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those ofabout 16 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.Preferably, two of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are selected from an alkylgroup of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbonatoms, more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and the remainder ofR⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are independently selected from CH₃, C₂H₅, C₂H₄OH,CH₂C₆H₅, and mixtures thereof.

Such preferred di-long alkyl cationic surfactants include, for example,dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethylammonium chloride.

High Melting Point Fatty Compound

The compositions of the present invention comprise the high meltingpoint fatty compound. By the use of high melting point fatty compound,the composition of the present invention provides improved conditioningbenefits such as friction reduction during conditioner application, easeof spreading, and/or ease of detangling, compared to compositionscontaining no high melting point fatty compounds and/or compared tocompositions containing low melting point fatty compounds instead ofhigh melting point fatty compounds. By the use of high melting pointfatty compound, the composition of the present invention may provideimproved stability of the composition such as reduced the risk of phaseseparation, compared to compositions containing no high melting pointfatty compounds and/or compared to compositions containing low meltingpoint fatty compounds instead of high melting point fatty compounds.

The high melting point fatty compound can be included in the compositionat a level of preferably from about 1.0%, more preferably from about1.5%, still more preferably from about 2.0%, even more preferably fromabout 2.5% by weight of the composition in view of providingconditioning benefits, and preferably to about 10%, more preferably toabout 8.0%, still more preferably to about 5.0%, even more preferably toabout 4.5% by weight of the composition, in view of providingtranslucent product appearance.

The high melting point fatty compound useful herein have a melting pointof 25° C. or higher, preferably 40° C. or higher, more preferably 45° C.or higher, still more preferably 50° C. or higher, in view of stabilityof the emulsion especially the gel matrix. Preferably, such meltingpoint is up to about 90° C., more preferably up to about 80° C., stillmore preferably up to about 70° C., even more preferably up to about 65°C., in view of easier manufacturing and easier emulsification. In thepresent invention, the high melting point fatty compound can be used asa single compound or as a blend or mixture of at least two high meltingpoint fatty compounds. When used as such blend or mixture, the abovemelting point means the melting point of the blend or mixture.

The high melting point fatty compound useful herein is selected from thegroup consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcoholderivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. It isunderstood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this sectionof the specification can in some instances fall into more than oneclassification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also beclassified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification isnot intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is doneso for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it isunderstood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position ofdouble bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compoundshaving certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of lessthan the above preferred in the present invention. Such compounds of lowmelting point are not intended to be included in this section.Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found inInternational Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, andCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.

Among a variety of high melting point fatty compounds, fatty alcoholsare preferably used in the composition of the present invention. Thefatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. Thesefatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chainalcohols.

Preferred fatty alcohols include, for example, cetyl alcohol (having amelting point of about 56° C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting pointof about 58-59° C.), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about71° C.), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have theabove melting point. However, they often have lower melting points whensupplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fattyalcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkylchain is cetyl, stearyl or behenyl group.

In the present invention, more preferred fatty alcohol is a mixture ofcetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

Generally, in the mixture, the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearylalcohol is preferably from about 1:9 to 9:1, more preferably from about1:4 to about 4:1, still more preferably from about 1:2.3 to about 1.5:1

Material Having High Refractive Index

The composition comprises a material having a high refractive index at awavelength of λ=589 nm at 25° C. of from about 1.30 to about 1.70,preferably from about 1.35 to about 1.65, more preferably from about1.40 to about 1.55. Such material can be a solvent or solid which issoluble in aqueous carrier.

Preferred materials having such high refractive index are polyols whichare explained below in detail.

Polyol

The composition preferably comprises a polyol, which contributes toproviding translucent product appearance.

In preferred embodiment, polyols can be included in the composition at alevel of above 30% (not including 30%), more preferably from about 40%,still more preferably from about 45%, and preferably to about 80%, morepreferably to about 70%, more preferably to about 65% by weight of thecomposition, in view of providing translucent appearance and havingpreferred shear stress. It is also preferred to have a certain weightratio between polyol and a total weight of cationic surfactants and highmelting point fatty compounds in view of providing translucentappearance. The weight ratio of polyols to the combination of cationicsurfactants and high melting point fatty compounds is preferably fromabout 6:1 to about 18:1, more preferably from about 8:1 to about 15:1,still more preferably from about 9:1 to about 13:1.

Polyol useful herein are those having a molecular weight of preferablyfrom about 60 to about 500, more preferably from about 60 to about 350,still more preferably from about 60 to about 200, even more preferablyfrom about 60 to about 150.

Preferably, polyols useful herein have at least 2 hydroxyl groups, morepreferably at least 3 hydroxyl groups, and preferably up to 12 hydroxylsgroups, more preferably up to 10 hydroxyls groups, still more preferablyup to 6 hydroxyls groups, even more preferably up to 4 hydroxyls groups.

Polyols useful herein are preferably water soluble. Water solublepolyols herein means those being soluble at a level used at 30° C.Non-water soluble polyols are, for example, glyceryl stearate thatrequires higher temperature to be soluble. Preferably, polyols hereinare free of ester bond and ether bond.

Polyols useful herein include, for example: pentaerythritol; propyleneglycol; butylene glycol; glycerin; sorbitol; xylitol; pentylene glycol;hexylene glycol; Diols such as 1,2-diol, 1,3-diol, and other diols, thediols having a hydrocardon chain having 1-20 carbons, preferably 1-6carbons; polyethylene glycol; polypropylene glycol; polybutylene glycol;polypentylene glycol; and polyhexylene glycol. Among them, preferred areglycerin, sorbitol, xylitol, in view of providing translucent appearanceand preferred shear stress. More preferred are glycerin, in view oftranslucent appearance and preferred shear stress.

Aqueous Carrier

The composition of the present invention preferably comprises an aqueouscarrier. The level and species of the carrier are selected according tothe compatibility with other components, and other desiredcharacteristic of the product.

The carrier useful in the present invention includes water and watersolutions of lower alkyl alcohols. The lower alkyl alcohols usefulherein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferablyethanol and isopropanol.

Preferably, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized wateris preferably used. Water from natural sources including mineral cationscan also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of theproduct. Generally, the compositions of the present invention comprisefrom about 20% to about 80%, preferably from about 20% to about 70%, andmore preferably from about 30% to about 60%, and more preferably fromabout 35% to about 55% water by weight of the composition.

Gel Matrix

Preferably, in the present invention, the cationic surfactant system,the high melting point fatty compound, the material having a higherrefractive index such as polyol, and an aqueous carrier form a gelmatrix. The gel matrix is suitable for providing various conditioningbenefits, such as slippery feel during the application to wet hair andsoftness and moisturized feel on dry hair.

Preferably, when the gel matrix is formed, the cationic surfactant andthe high melting point fatty compound are contained at a level such thatthe weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high melting pointfatty compound is in the range of, preferably from about 1:1 to about1:7, more preferably from about 1:1.15 to about 1:5, still morepreferably from about 1:2 to 1:4, in view of providing conditioningbenefits and translucent product appearance. In this weight ratio, thecationic surfactant is a component without counter ion or acid, forexample, when the cationic surfactant is the combination of a mono-longalkyl amine and an acid, the weight of mono-long alkyl amine without theweight of acid is considered in this weight ratio.

Preferably, when the gel matrix is formed, the composition of thepresent invention is substantially free of anionic surfactants in viewof stability of the gel matrix.

In the present invention, “the composition being substantially free ofanionic surfactants” means that: the composition is free of anionicsurfactants; or, if the composition contains anionic surfactants, thelevel of such anionic surfactants is very low. In the present invention,a total level of such anionic surfactants a, if included, preferably0.1% or less, more preferably 0.05% or less, still more preferably 0.01%or less by weight of the composition. Most preferably, the total levelof such anionic surfactants is 0% by weight of the composition.

Silicone Compound

The compositions of the present invention may contain a siliconecompound. The silicone compounds are included at levels by weight of thecomposition of from about 0.05% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.1%to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%.

Preferably, the silicone compounds have an average particle size of fromabout 1 microns to about 50 microns, in the composition.

The silicone compounds useful herein, as a single compound, as a blendor mixture of at least two silicone compounds, or as a blend or mixtureof at least one silicone compound and at least one solvent, have aviscosity of preferably from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mPa·s at 25°C.

The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometeras set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, Jul. 20,1970. Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, aminosubstituted silicones, quaternized silicones, and mixtures thereof.Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having conditioning properties canalso be used.

In some embodiments, amino substituted silicones are preferably used.Preferred aminosilicones include, for example, those which conform tothe general formula (I):(R₁)_(a)G_(3-a)-Si—(—OSiG₂)_(n)-(—OSiG_(b)(R₁)_(2-b))_(m)—O—SiG_(3-a)(R₁)_(a)wherein G is hydrogen, phenyl, hydroxy, or C₁-C₈ alkyl, preferablymethyl; a is 0 or an integer having a value from 1 to 3, preferably 1; bis 0, 1 or 2, preferably 1; n is a number from 0 to 1,999; m is aninteger from 0 to 1,999; the sum of n and m is a number from 1 to 2,000;a and m are not both 0; R₁ is a monovalent radical conforming to thegeneral formula CqH_(2q)L, wherein q is an integer having a value from 2to 8 and L is selected from the following groups: —N(R₂)CH₂—CH₂—N(R₂)₂;—N(R₂)₂; —N(R₂)₃A⁻; —N(R₂)CH₂—CH₂—NR₂H₂A⁻; wherein R₂ is hydrogen,phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkylradical from about C₁ to about C₂₀; A⁻ is a halide ion.

Highly preferred amino silicones are those corresponding to formula (I)wherein m=0, a=1, q=3, G=methyl, n is preferably from about 1500 toabout 1700, more preferably about 1600; and L is —N(CH₃)₂ or —NH₂, morepreferably —NH₂. Another highly preferred amino silicones are thosecorresponding to formula (I) wherein m=0, a=1, q=3, G=methyl, n ispreferably from about 400 to about 600, more preferably about 500; and Lis —N(CH₃)₂ or —NH₂, more preferably —NH₂. Such highly preferred aminosilicones can be called as terminal aminosilicones, as one or both endsof the silicone chain are terminated by nitrogen containing group.

The above aminosilicones, when incorporated into the composition, can bemixed with solvent having a lower viscosity. Such solvents include, forexample, polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile oils. Such oilsinclude, for example, silicone oils, hydrocarbons, and esters. Amongsuch a variety of solvents, preferred are those selected from the groupconsisting of non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons, volatile cyclicsilicones, non-volatile linear silicones, and mixtures thereof. Thenon-volatile linear silicones useful herein are those having a viscosityof from about 1 to about 20,000 centistokes, preferably from about 20 toabout 10,000 centistokes at 25° C. Among the preferred solvents, highlypreferred are non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons, especially non-polar,volatile isoparaffins, in view of reducing the viscosity of theaminosilicones and providing improved hair conditioning benefits such asreduced friction on dry hair. Such mixtures have a viscosity ofpreferably from about 1,000 mPa·s to about 100,000 mPa·s, morepreferably from about 5,000 mPa·s to about 50,000 mPa·s.

Other suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include thosehaving alkylamino substitutions as pendant groups of a siliconebackbone. Highly preferred are those known as “amodimethicone”.Commercially available amodimethicones useful herein include, forexample, BY16-872 available from Dow Corning.

Additional Components

The composition of the present invention may include other additionalcomponents, which may be selected by the artisan according to thedesired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable forrendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptableor to provide them with additional usage benefits. Such other additionalcomponents generally are used individually at levels of from about0.001% to about 10%, preferably up to about 5% by weight of thecomposition.

A wide variety of other additional components can be formulated into thepresent compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such ashydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel,vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenolavailable from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche,hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients;preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben andimidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodiumcitrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodiumcarbonate; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes;perfumes; ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents suchas benzophenones; and antidandruff agents such as zinc pyrithione.

Product Forms

The compositions of the present invention can be in the form ofrinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be formulated in a widevariety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, gels,emulsions, mousses and sprays. The composition of the present inventionis especially suitable for hair conditioners especially rinse-off hairconditioners.

When used as a rinse-off conditioner, the composition is preferably usedby the following steps:

-   (i) after shampooing hair, applying to the hair an effective amount    of the conditioning composition for conditioning the hair; and-   (ii) then rinsing the hair.

Effective amount herein is, for example, from about 0.1 ml to about 2 mlper 10 g of hair, preferably from about 0.2 ml to about 1.5 ml per 10 gof hair.

EXAMPLES

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodimentswithin the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solelyfor the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed aslimitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof arepossible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.Where applicable, ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA name,or otherwise defined below.

TABLE 1 Compositions (wt %) Components Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 CEx. iCEx. ii CEx. iii Stearamidopropyl 1.13 1.13 1.13 1.13 1.13 — 1.13dimethyl amine L-glutamic acid 0.37 0.37 0.37 0.37 0.37 — 0.37 Behenyl —— — — — 2.0 — trimethylammonium chloride Cetyl alcohol 1.17 1.17 1.171.17 — — — Stearyl alcohol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 — 4.0 — Lauryl alcohol — — —— — — 2.15 Glycerin 50 60 — — 50 50 50 Xylitol — — 50 — — — — Sorbitol —— — 50 — — — Silicone 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Preservatives0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Perfume 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4Deionized Water q.s. to 100% % T for the 16.1 20.6 6.68 9.24 N/A 4.997.05 composition base % T for the 6.09 2.05 4.65 3.09 N/A 3.45 N/Acomposition (final product formulation) Shear stress for the 498 618 353398 N/A 201 47 composition base Shear stress for the 282 465 332 268 N/A93 N/A composition (final product formulation) Phase separation ◯ ◯ ◯ ◯X ◯ X Spreadability on wet Control No No No N/A Significantly N/A hairnoticeable noticeable noticeable difficult difference differencedifference to spread from from from compared Control Control Control toControl (scored −15 compared to Control) Wet detangling Control No No NoN/A Slightly N/A before and after noticeable noticeable noticeabledifficult to rinsing difference difference difference detangle from fromfrom compared Control Control Control to Control (scored −5 compared toControl)Method of Preparation

The hair care compositions of “Ex. 1” through “Ex.4”, “CEx.i” and“CEx.iii” as shown above can be prepared by any conventional method wellknown in the art.

Properties and Conditioning Benefits

For some of the above compositions, properties and conditioning benefitsare evaluated by the following methods. Results of the evaluation arealso shown above.

The embodiments disclosed and represented by “Ex. 1” through “Ex. 4” arehair conditioning compositions of the present invention which areparticularly useful for rinse-off use. Such embodiments have manyadvantages. For example, they provide translucent product appearance,conditioning benefits especially wet conditioning benefits, and alsoimproved stability of the composition such as reduced the risk of phaseseparation. Such advantages of the present invention can be understoodby the comparison between these examples and comparatives examples“CEx.i” and “CEx.iii”.

Properties Such as % T and Shear Stress

% T and shear stress are measured by the methods described above.

Phase Separation

The compositions are judged if a phase separation happens or not bydirect visual observation.

◯: No phase separation is observed

X: Phase separation is observed.

Panelist Test for Conditioning Benefits

Conditioning benefits such as spreadability and wet detangling areevaluated by a panelist test. 8 panelists evaluated samples prepared byapplying 0.1 ml of the above compositions per 1 g hair. Panelistsevaluated each sample from 0 to 100 scale for each of spreadability anddetangling. The data from the panelists were gathered, averaged, andscored, and compared.

The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood asbeing strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead,unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean boththe recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding thatvalue. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean“about 40 mm.”

Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or relatedpatent or application, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in itsentirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation ofany document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect toany invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in anycombination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests ordiscloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning ordefinition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning ordefinition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, themeaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shallgovern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have beenillustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in theart that various other changes and modifications can be made withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereforeintended to cover in the appended claims all such changes andmodifications that are within the scope of this invention.

What is claimed is:
 1. A hair conditioning composition comprising: a gelmatrix consisting of: (a) from about 0.3% to about 5% by weight of acationic surfactant; wherein the cationic surfactant is a salt of amono-long alkyl amine and an acid; wherein the salt of a mono-long alkylamine is stearamidopropyl dimethyl amine and the acid is glutamic acid;(b) from about 1.5% to about 10% by weight of a mixture of cetyl alcoholand stearyl alcohol; (c) from about 45% to about 65% by weight of thecomposition of a polyol material having a refractive index of from about1.30 to about 1.70; selected from the group consisting of glycerin,sorbitol, xylitol and mixtures thereof, and (d) an aqueous carrier;wherein the hair conditioning composition is free of: low melting pointfatty compounds oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate,isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, caprylic alcohol, and decylalcohol; and the hair conditioning composition is free of non-siliconethickening polymers.